Squall has all the features of a modern sport runabout, but being built of waterproof plywood sheets, the construc­tion has been simplified to produce a light­weight strong hull suitable for many uses. Squall was designed to handle well at all speeds using any outboard motor from 10 to 30 horsepower. With a total crew weight of not over 225 pounds, a 10-hp motor is fully capable of driving Squall up to 18 miles per hour; 22-hp will do close to 27 miles, and a 30-hp motor is almost capable of 32 miles per hour. Of course, it is un­derstood that the best propeller combina­tion as recommended by the manufacturer and a thorough engine tune-up is a neces­sity to reach these speeds.

Designed for the young-in-heart and built of plywood, this 14-foot runabout can attain speeds of almost 32 miles per hour.

The modern trend is evident in the twin tail fins; their principal purpose is to par­tially hide the motor in profile view. However, if the feature does not appeal, simply omit the tail fins as they will have no effect on the performance, and while they do not add to the structural strength of the boat, they may aid in keeping the motor drier when running in a choppy sea.

Before starting construction, study the plans. The sizes given are all for finished materials and almost any mill will recut rough stock to the final thicknesses or sizes. Incidentally, while the variety of marine plywood is not specified, if a nice job is de­sired, use marine mahogany plywood. In many boats built using only mahogany-faced plywood, the center core completely rotted out leaving only a thin shell that eventually collapsed. If solid mahogany is not available, Douglas fir plywood should be chosen in preference to using birch ply­wood. However, no matter what plywood is used, it should be marine grade or equiv­alent quality for marine use.

Since it is much more convenient to build Squall upside down, the lines and offsets are all given to a base line located above the sheer line and to the inside of planking and underside of decking. It is most ad­visable to lay down the lines of the boat full size, and while a clear floor space of sufficient size might be slightly difficult to secure, careful lofting is still the founda­tion of good workmanship in building any boat. It is a lengthy operation but the only way to correct slight errors in the hull form or clerical mistakes in the offsets that are not apparent to the eye when working on a small drawing. Also parts of the plans that may appear complicated become sim­ple in full-size layout. Plenty of time must be allowed for this step of the work and the builder should construct the boat men­tally as he lays out his full-size plans.

Each frame should be laid out for both sides from the dimensions adding the con­struction, since each bottom frame is a single piece from chine to chine across the centerline of the boat. From these out­lines, templates can be made for marking off each part on the proper material so that the grain runs as long as possible on the turns. Cut out these parts and smooth the inner edges; any edge in contact with the planking does not need sanding since it will be beveled and notched later.

After checking each part of each frame against the full-size drawing, assemble with glue and three wood screws through each gusset into each part. The notches for the inner keel and chines (but not the bottom longitudinals or sheer stringer) can now be cut. Except for the frames which have deck beams—these should be included in the assembly—attach tem­porary crossbraces of any scrap material near the heads of the frames.

Prepare a template for the stem in a manner similar to that used for the frames. If you live near a boat yard, you may be able to pick up a discarded steam-bent frame that has the proper shape for this stem. If not, you can saw it to shape from white oak or make it from two pieces of ¾-inch plywood, gluing and screwing them together with the seam on the centerline. If you use plywood, care should be taken that no fastenings are located near the for­ward edge, where they might possibly in­terfere with the beveling for the planking.

Build the boat on a level, firm wooden floor that measures not less than 10 by 18 feet. Prepare the floor by applying a cheap grade of pastel color, water paint. On this, lay out the boat's centerline and the other lines at right angles to it that represent the molded frame lines.

The transom and frames are now set up. This is done by attaching the frame heads to the floor with the molded line of each frame located as shown in the drawings. (In general, the molded frame line is the wider side of the frame after the bevels are cut.) Each frame is then secured by adding temporary battens and bracing.

Bend the inner keel in place in the notches provided for it and fasten to each frame with a single screw on the center-line. Set the stem up and secure to the inner keel as shown. Fit and add the chines fastening to each frame with one wood screw.

Next, notch the frames for the sheer stringers and fasten each stringer to each frame with one wood screw. The bottom longitudinals are temporarily clamped in place at about the locations shown and marked; then they are removed and the notches cut; then after fitting, each longi­tudinal is fastened to each frame with a single screw.

The framework is now trimmed, faired, and beveled with a plane and wood rasp un­til the entire frame is thoroughly checked for fairness, by springing fairly long nar­row battens around the structure. All fastenings are to be recessed, and all voids are to be filled so the plywood planking will touch evenly at all points.

Next comes the planking. Obtain a panel of inexpensive plywood, ⅛inch thick, and use it to make templates for the side and bottom. Put the sides on first, starting at the bow with eight-foot panels. Carefully fit each template, then lay it on good ply­wood, mark, and cut out. After cutting and fitting each member symmetrically on each side, drive the alternate screws. When all has been satisfactorily done, back out the screws, apply glue to all contact sur­faces, replace the plank and redrive the screws as well as those previously omitted. Where two panels meet, install a butt strap between the chine and sheer stringer, and fasten the butt straps to the planking with clinched shingle nails. Plane off the bot­tom edge flush with the bottom of the chine log so the bottom planking will fit close to­gether along the bottom edge.

Install the bottom planking in a similar manner, laying the eight-foot panels from the after end of the boat or transom so the butt straps on the bottom won't be near those on the sides. The bottom straps should be continuous from inner keel to chines.  Notch the bottom longitudinals as required. It will be helpful when bending the bottom in place at the stem to soak it in hot water before applying it the first time. If this is done, allow it to dry before removing it to apply the glue. The outer edge should be planed flush with the outer surface of the side planking. To protect the raw plywood edges where the bottom laps the sides, spray strips are fitted, set­ting them in non-hardening marine-bedding compound when fastened. The exposed edges of the plywood along the stem and keel are covered with an outer stem and keel, and fastened with long wood screws after being set in non-hardening marine-bedding compound. To make this piece more pliable, boil it for half an hour before installing it.

Now turn the boat over and set it on two sawhorses fitted with well-padded chocks. Remove the crossbraces, install the deck stringers and bridge-deck fram­ing, and cut off the frame projections. Trim and fair the beams, sheer stringers, coam­ing corner filler pieces, breasthook, quarter knees, and frameheads to take the plywood decking. Fit the decking, butting it over a strap on the boat's centerline and fasten the decking to the deck framing. Fasten the guard rails over the outboard edges of the plywood decking, setting them in non-hardening bedding compound. The in­board edges of the plywood decking should be covered with the coamings which should be well rounded off and project about ¼inch above the top of the decking.

Add the seat risers, seats, floorboards, back rests, tail fins, etc., and you're ready to sand, paint, and varnish the boat after all screw heads have been _ slightly recessed below the surface of the plywood to allow for filler over the heads before painting. Remember that the surface to be painted must be smooth, dry, and clean. The finish is built up on this, inside and out, using at least two coats of plywood sealer and three coats of paint or varnish. One or two thick coats are useless. Since cheap paint will not last, use only recognized marine-paint manufacturer's products. After ap­plying each coat, allow it time to dry thoroughly and then sand it down before starting the next coat. Use only standard colors—a non-standard hue will prove troublesome later when it may be neces­sary to touch up a damaged surface.

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