This is done by attaching the frame heads to the floor with the molded line of each frame located as shown in the drawings. (In general, the molded frame line is the wider side of the frame after the bevels are cut). Each frame is then secured in position at the proper rake by adding tem­porary battens and bracing.
Bend the inner keel in the notches pro­vided for it and fasten to each frame with a countersunk ¼-inch diameter carriage bolt on the centerline. Set the stem up and secure to the inner keel as shown. Add the chines, fastening to the frames with a 1¾-inch screw.

Next notch the frames for the clamps and fasten to frames with one FA-inch flathead screw each. The longitudinals are tem­porarily clamped in place at about the lo­cations shown and marked, then they are removed and the notches cut. Fasten each longitudinal to each frame with one 1¾-inch screw.
  The framework is now trimmed, faired and beveled with a plane and wood rasp. All fastenings are recessed and all voids are filled so plywood planking will touch evenly at all points. Check the fairing and beveling frequently by springing fairly small stiff battens around the structure.

  Next   comes   the   planking. Obtain   a panel of inexpensive plywood and use it to make templates for the sides and bot­tom. Put the sides on first, starting at the bow and using 8-foot panels. Carefully fit each template, then lay it on good plywood, mark and cut out. Secure the planking with one inch screws spaced about 2 inches apart.

The inner face of the outer stem also is coated with the sealer which automatically creates an adhesive seal between the inner and outer stems. When the outer stem is fastened into place, a squeeze-out of excess sealer may occur. Wipe off   all  excess  immediately  with  a  damp  cloth.

Where two panels meet install a butt strap between the chine and clamp, tem­porarily fastening it in place. After the side planking has been satisfactorily fitted and screw fastened, back the screws out, apply glue to the framework, lay cloth strips on the glued areas, replace the ply­wood and redrive all screws. Fasten the butt straps to the planking with clinched shingle nails.

Install the bottom planking in a similar manner to lap over the side planking, lay­ing the 8-foot panels from the after end of the boat so the butt straps on the bottom will not be near those on the sides. The bottom straps should be continuous from inner keel to the chines. Notch the bot­tom longitudinal as required. It might be helpful when bending the bottom in place at the stem to soak it in hot water or steam it before applying it the first time. If this is done allow the bottom to dry out thor­oughly before removing it to apply the glue.

The skeq is fastened into place with bronze screws from inside the keel. Countersink the screws, cover with wood dough and sand smooth.

View of the deck framing from astern. Note that amidships cross braces are still in place.

To protect the raw plywood edges where the bottom laps the sides, the outer chines or spray strips are fitted, setting them in nonhardening marine bedding compound and thoroughly fastening them. The ex­posed edges of the plywood along the stem and keel are covered with an outer stem and keel, securing it with 1¾-inch screws on 6-inch centers. It might be necessary to make this piece more pliable by boiling or steaming it for half an hour before in­stalling the member.

Now turn the boat over and set it on two well-padded supports.   Remove the crossbraces, install the clamps, deck stringers and deck framing and cut off the frame projections. Trim and fair the beams, clamps, stringers and frame heads to take the plywood decking, but before doing so install the cockpit sides and ends and thor­oughly fasten all to the corner posts, headers and deck framing.

The hull is now ready to be fitted to the iron fin keel which may require a thin wood shim which must be kept to a mini­mum. Before bolting together place a heavy layer of felt soaked in thick paint or a thick layer of 3M Minnesota Mining.

Marprox Epoxy-Resin (left) is applied to the king plank and the deck beams to form a rigid, immovable bond between the plywood decking and the deck beams and king plank. Sealer (above left) is used to provide a flexible watertight seal at the joint of the sheer and plywood decking. The decking is applied immediately afterward. Interior view (center) showing the construction at the starboard corner of the transom. Sealer squeeze-out should be wiped off immediately. Interior view (above right) showing the two berths. The mast prop has been  removed and  is  stowed under the  forward  end  of the  berths.

Compound between the iron keel and the wood keel. The ballast keel bolts should be galvanized iron or steel set up tight with rubber or leather washers under the metal nuts and washers on the inside of the hull.

The rudder and tiller are now made up and fitted to the boat, using a standard set of Lightning class gudgeons. In any case the rudder fittings should be amply strong and there should be some means to keep the rudder from lifting off.

As previously noted, the spar and rig design is simple and requires little ex­planation. The mast is of the usual box construction, which is about the strongest as well as the lightest and simplest type for the amateur to build. The main pieces of the spars are glued together, using casein or Weldwood glue, without any other fas­tenings as they are unnecessary and only add weight. The arrangement of the spreaders and various stays and shrouds is to be carefully followed. As for the sails, nothing need be added except that the reef points should be reinforced grommets and when it becomes necessary to reef, which should be relatively seldom, a lace tine should be used.

The remaining joinerwork, spars, etc., can now all be added. Except for a thor­ough sanding Carinita will be ready for painting and varnishing. The hull should be given two coats of Cuprinol or an equiv­alent rot resisting preservative. All ply­wood should have two coats of plywood sealer inside and out. Apply at least three coats of good marine paint or varnish to the entire boat, in strict accordance with each manufacturer's instructions.
 
After all the paint is dry the hull is ready for the deck hardware and other fittings. As these are matters of individual prefer­ence it need only be said that all unneces­sary items add weight. So unless there is a definite use for a fitting do not add it. Too many fittings, especially of the chrome plated variety, create a distasteful sense of gaudiness or cheapness that has no place in a boat of this type. •Those shown are the barest minimum for handling the working sails.

Additional fittings will be required for handling a Genoa jib or spin­naker when racing. For night running self-contained battery lights are the most satisfactory and these should be attached to removable light boards fastened to the shrouds on each side. As for any other special equipment outside of the required government items, these can be a matter of personal preference. But in no case should the boat be loaded down with a lot of extra equipment that is not necessary.

The completed Carinita awaits its maiden voyage. The sails hare been removed to show the rigging details.

As mentioned before, the amount and proper position fore and aft of the inside ballast is to correct the flotation of the boat and may preferably be lead pigs, but if iron pigs or sash weights are used have every piece thoroughly coated with hot pitch. In any case the ballast should rest on thin bat­tens for drainage between the floors and should be secured against shifting with more battens and sufficient chocks.

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