THE ENGINE INSTALLATION

The propeller is set off center for the six following good reasons:

1. The propeller shaft does not interfere with the normal keel bolts which are very important in this region.
2. The yacht is faster  and more  economical under power.
3. The yacht is faster under sail.
4. The yacht steers better under power.
5. The yacht steers better under sail.
6. If it is decided to remove the motor to make a straight sailer, or to set up a different shaft line for a different mo­tor, the matter is much simplified with the off center screw.

As to Number 2. Actual experience has proven that the off center propeller in­creases the speed or economy from ten to twenty per cent over a centerline pro­peller. The reason for this is that as a vessel passes through the water she gathers up a swirl of eddies caused by skin re­sistance, and under the stern at the center-line considerable water is following along with the vessel. Now if you place your pro­peller in this wake and upset its natural eddies which are decreasing surface re­sistance, and put in its place a propeller slip stream going thirty per cent faster than vessel, then you'll probably increase the total resistance some fifteen per cent.

THE ENGINE BED

I should prefer to have the engine bed made of angle iron or pipe properly folded, forged or welded at the engine lugs, etc. The ordinary wooden engine logs prevent one from reaching around and wiping off the crankcase and are a fire menace, as they are often saturated with oil and gas. On H 28 the after, outer engine lug or support comes right out to the plank­ing, so that a properly shaped block at this point will hold the engine from fore and aft and sidewise motion, if there is a diagonal brace to one of the other supports, so that the other supports can be run di­rectly to a floor timber. With a little in­genuity a quite simple metal engine bed can be made and sometimes it is advisable to do away entirely with the shoe the en­gine maker has furnished for a wooden log.

OTHER METAL FITTINGS

Throughout the design I have tried to use stock fittings, but in the case of the rudder pintles and gudgeons I am unable to find a suitable pattern, so I have de­signed these and the spar fittings, and they will only require three quite simple pat­terns and little machine work.

THE SPARS

All the spars are of rectangular section and so are about as easy to make as a long box. Their flat sides make the at­tachment of the shrouds more efficient. These are the reasons why I invented the rectangular spar construction some twenty years ago, and their use is now quite uni­versal. On H 28 the forward and after staves of the masts and upper and lower staves of the boom have a slight rabbet cut in them which you can easily do with a rabbet plane by tacking a batten along to guide the plane. This is done to hold the side pieces in place when gluing up. The principal trick in making this sort of spar is to hold them straight and stop them from twisting when gluing up, and this can often be done along the side of a building by nailing pieces of wood out at right angles to the studding so the building and the strips hold the staves straight in two directions and leave room for clamping between.

SPECIFICATIONS FOR CONSTRUCTION PLAN

• Lead keel, 2,800 lbs.
• Main keel, oak, 2y2"xl3"xl6'.
• Fore keel, oak, 21/2"x41/2"x6/.
• Stem, white oak natural crook, 41/2"x6'.
• Stern post, oak, 41/2" by 9"x7' 3".
• Knees, oak, 41/2" athwartships.
• Deadwood, hard pine, 7"x9"x5' 3".
• Scarf bolts, ⅜" Tobin, nut and washer both ends

• Floor  bolts, all 7/16"  Tobin,   nut   and washer both ends, two on floors 10 to 17.
• Lead through bolts, ½ Tobin.
• Drive bolts,  ⅜"  galv.  iron or Tobin (self heading or clinch ring).
• Hanger  bolts  for  attaching lead,  ⅝" Tobin, U.S.S. thread, let into the lead 3" or more, staggered.   See deck plan.
• All other bolts through keel, &" Tobin.
• All floor timbers, oak, 1½" thick. Take depth from plan.
• All frames, white oak, l⅝"xl⅝". Those on station 6 and forward can be sawn and beveled, the others steam bent. The frames, floors and deck beams change at 15 where the midship section, or dead flat mark, is
• .Planking.   Rift grain fir, 1" thick. If cedar or soft pine, l⅛" thick.   If mahogany or yellow pine, ⅞" thick.   The plank above the W.L. should not bemore than 4" wide, with the exception of sheer strake.
• The sheer strake should be of fairly hard wood to take the shelf bolts; hard, fine grain fir, oak or yellow pine will do, 5" or more wide amidships.
• Clamp, fir, spruce or hard pine, 1"x3½".
• Shelf, fir, spruce or hard pine, 2"x2".
• Regular deck beams,  1⅜"x2", crown 3¾" in 10'.
• Strong beams, three, 2"x2", crown 3¾" in 10'.
• House beams, ¾"xl½", spaced 9", and one at hatch l½"xl½", crown 6" in 6', or a radius of 8' 3".   All beams can be white oak, ash, elm or yellow-bark oak, or even red oak, for they are larger than usual.
• The transom can be planked up of 1" thick oak over the stern post, frames and aprons as shown.   Planks about 6" wide   fastened   and   caulked  same  as planking.
• Main deck, ¾" or more, tongue-and- groove pine 3" or less wide, canvas covered.
• House deck, ⅝" or more, tongue-and-groove pine, 2½" or less wide, canvas covered.
  

  The cabin of H 28. Careful planning has produced a surprisingly roomy home aboard ship. The galley (left) reveals a compactly installed stove and work table with room enough for the cook to move about. Beyond the stove (right) is a comfortable dining area with benches that convert into bunks for four.

• Mast partner, oak, 1½"x10"x20", with⅜" through bolts.
• Mooring cleat, Wilcox, Crittenden Fig.4020 or similar.   10" long on oak block,1"x6"x10".House sides and forward end, soft pine,if painted l¼" thick; if varnished, ma­hogany, oak or teak 1" thick.
• Lodging piece for deck beams about1"x3", oak or mahogany.
• Finish piece to cover the deck canvaswhere turned up—any wood to match interior trim.
• Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 5252, size 5"x9" or 4"x7" as owner desires.
• Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 523, size 4", portand starboard.
• Stem band in two parts for attaching both the forestay and the headstay. In­ner   piece  3/16x2"x27";  outer   piece 3/16'x2"x13".    Hard Tobin or Phosphor bronze 7/16" pin for thimble of forestay. The outer layer extends up to take the clevis of the headstay turnbuckle and has a 5/16" hole.
• Cast bronze bow chocks.
• Mast collar to take the mast coat, can be either cast bronze or shaped up of sheet   copper.     Mast   is   41/4"x51/2//   at deck. Hatch and slide of hard wood, opening 20"x26".
• Gas and water tanks, alike of tin lined 90 copper.   The size shown will hold about 23 gallons and is shaped to fit the yacht on the outer sides. They have filler pipes and vents outside the coaming as shown to allow the gas to settle outboard when filling tank. If smaller capacity is suffi­cient, round or oval tanks can be used. It is recommended to have the water tank on the side the stove will be on (if the stove is near the cabin bulk­head), very firmly secured.
• Jibsheet   cleats,   port   and   starboard, Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 4020, 5½".
• Screw   eye  bolt  for  mizzen  brace  or backstay.   Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 2181, ½"x3¼".    See rigging  list for  other parts.
• Special cast bronze inside stuffing box, depending on size of motor used.
• Special one-legged strut of cast bronze bolted through stern post.
• Hyde 2-blade, feathering propeller, 12" diam.
• Removable box cover over engine, top same as house deck, canvas covered.
• Threshold    is    a    removable    board, 3/4"x9"x21",  of hard wood to lift out when cranking motor.
• The best cockpit floor would be of slats about 1" wide, ¾" thick spaced about ¼", of teak, elm or oak, with removable section near the centerline.
• The   cabin   floor   can   be  tongue-and- groove soft pine from ⅝" to ¾" thick, painted or varnished
•  Mast step, oak, 3½"x5"x2' 5", cut mor­tise for mast tongue way through to drain water.    Tongue of mainmast is 4"x1¼".
• Mast step, oak, 2½"x6"xl3½", tongue of mizzen 3"xl".
  
• Main upper shroud chainplates, 3/16“x 1¼ xl8".
• Main lower shroud chainplates, 3/16”x l½x24".
• Mizzen upper shroud chainplates, 3/16”x 1"x15".
• Mizzen lower shroud chainplates, 3/16”x 1V4"x18".  All chainplates of hard rolled Tobin or Phosphor bronze and fastened through planking with ¼" stove bolts, spaced to clear seams of planking.
• If the shelf and clamp are well through bolted, there will be no need of hanging or lodging knees to support the deck beams.  On the drawing there is shown a 5/16”X6” stove bolt which can be either galvanized iron, Everdur or brass.  The clamp can be fastened with No. 14 wood screws of about 2½".   The head of the frames and deck beams can be joined with ¼" bolts or slightly smaller copper rivets. The ends of the deck beams can be secured to the clamp with No. 16 3½" Everdur wood screws, and it would be well if the ones through the strong beams were larger.
• Planking   fastenings,   No.   14   Everdur screws 2¼" long, into frames with a ½" bung. The fastenings through the garboard into the back rabbet of keel may have to be shorter. Be sure to fasten the planking to both the frames and the floor timbers as this relieves the strain on the bolts through the frames and floors No. 55.
• These should be 5/16" bronze bolts or copper rivets about ¼" diameter.
• We are sorry  to say the mizzen will need an after brace or stay, and this will be shown on the rigging plan.   If preferred, the mizzen can be supported by a stout thwart between frames 22 and 23.   The spring stay from the mizzen to the mainmast head will hold the miz­zen forward.
• The cockpit coaming, from ¾" to ⅞" thick,  depending  on  hardness  of the wood; of mahogany, oak or teak, and would look nice if it matched the other deck trim, if varnished. The forward end is fitted to a shaped block to avoid the necessity of steaming.
• The cockpit seats can be soft pine about 1"xl9"x7' 8" with lighter sheathing back of them.   The apron or skirt near the inboard edge must be quite strong un­ less there is more than one support as shown.   The apron can be ⅞"x3" if soft wood, and smaller if hard wood. Aft of the tanks there can be some athwart-ship cleats, if desired. Very good seats can be made like the cockpit floor and slats let the rain or water through quickly. Also they pre­vent one from slipping sideways some­what. But remember 19" is about the minimum width to sleep on.
• The tiller can be of ash, oak or locust, 2" square at rudder head, about 1%" and 1½" at fluting, ⅞" at the neck, with 11/2" ball.
• Cast bronze bale for attaching mizzen sheet, about Vi" diameter where round.
• Copper rivets through the rudder to se­ cure the cheek pieces.
• The forward plank on the rudder, or rudder stock, is 2"x9"x8' 5" and the cheek pieces ⅞"x5½, 2' 10" and well beveled off forward to allow the rudder to swing 45°  each side of center line. Some kind of oak is the usual material for rudders of this size.
• The after piece of rudder is 1½"x10½"x 6' 1" and secured with 5/16" self heading drive bolts of either galv. iron or bronze, the trailing edge of rudder about l¼" at W.L., ⅞" at the widest part of the rudder.
•  Toe   rail,   quarter   knees   and   taffrail, either the same material as coaming and house sides, or teak, mahogany, oak or yellow pine—about 1" wide, ¾" deep amidships, increasing at ends to about l"xl" taffrail as shown.
• Jibsheet leads—Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 5811, size No. 2.
• Don't forget  the  limber  holes.    They should be cut in the floors before they are set in place, and cut in the heels of the frames before planking. Large, smooth limber holes are a great con­venience and quite worth while making right in the first place, and quite difficult to enlarge later.
• Rudder pintles. See detail. There is a way to fit an oak block in the cavity below the upper pintle and gudgeon so that the rudder cannot rise and unship. This block can be about l¼"x2"x3" and held in place by gravity as the cheek pieces of the rudder will hold it side­ways, but it can be lifted out when the rudder is at 45° or more.
  

SPECIFICATIONS FOR CABIN PLAN

1.	Oak stanchion, about 11/4"xl1/4"x9".
2.	Transom seats, pine about ¾" thick, or ½" laminated wood.
3.	Cross pieces, any wood about ⅞"x2".
4.	Upper face piece, ⅝"x3".
5.	Lower face piece, ⅝"x3".
6.	Combination tool box and step with hinged top. Outside of box about 18" long, 8" high, 11" wide.   After corners may have to be cut away for frame 19.
7.	Removable threshold for cranking mo­ tor.
8.	Removable section to raise cabin doors above motor cover. One end Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 3600, other end two No. 14 screws with head sawed off. Ventila­tion holes, if wanted.
9.	Cabin doors are best if paneled up so as to reduce shrinking and swelling. They can be about ¾" thick.    Cabin doors should be un-hung when sailing and can be stowed under the cockpit seats aft, if desired.
10.	There  are  no  commercial  unhooking hinges that have the butts covered so thieves cannot unscrew the screws, so a full size drawing of proper ones is given. They must be made up in pairs, right and left hand with the pins of pintels of the lower hinges longest to facilitate hanging the doors.   The pin is best if of 5/16"  Tobin bronze either threaded or driven in, with well rounded upper end. (Maybe Wilcox, Crittenden will make some up.)
11.	Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 3600, brass.
12.	Wilcox,  Crittenden Fig.  475, polished brass.
13.	Berth stop, oak 3/4"x1½"x4½".
14.	Ratchet  action  clip  to  hold  berth  in folded position.    Oak ¾"x1½ about 7 or more inches.   No. 14 round-head screw over washer.
15.	Berth hooks of sheet brass or bronze from 1/6" to ⅛" thick.
16.	Merriman Fig. 431—No. 2.
17.	Food locker doors, flush for back rest when cooking, pine about ¾"x9"xl8".
18.	Wilcox, Crittenden Fig. 358.
19.	Wilcox, Crittenden stove Fig. 825.
20.	Suggested position of Wilcox, Critten-­ den lamp Fig. 99—No. 1.
21.	Curtain,  if  wanted,  can be  tied  back against shelf and clamp at frame No. 10, or privacy can be had by putting on the cabin doors.
22.	Wooden bucket with wide rim removable top—both to be hung normally under after deck.
23.	Suggested   position   of   Chelsea   clock, marine 4½" dial, and set hand. Granted that H 28 is a large job, the man who builds it will find himself the proud owner of a boat load of pleasure.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here